shimano tld 15 rebuild

shimano tld 15 rebuild

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shimano tld 15 rebuild - 30 May 2006 16:43:47

Alan Tani

Posts: 182
Joined: 15 May 2006
From: saratoga, california, usa
Status: offline

the shimano tld 15's were the first lever drag reels that i started working on. it seems like ages ago, but it was really just a few short years. in that time, i've learned a tremendous amount about lever drag reels. what were going to do is put in heavier belleville pressure washers to increase the drag range, clean out the bearings to increase freespool time and decrease the risk of corrosion, and install a greased carbon fiber drag washer. here's the schematic....

http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/SAC/techdocs/en/Conventional/TLD_15_ARB_v1_m56577569830570243.pdf

here's a brand new tld 15 spooled up with 65 pound braid.

remove the preprogram dial (key #9), the lever shaft body (key #11) and "O" ring (key #10), and drag control lever (key #12). Note that there is no spring.

remove the lever quadrant (key #191) and screws (key #19, 20 and 21).

there are 5 side plate bolts (key #24) to remove.

separate out the frame, spool and side plate.

add a little grease to the click pawl (key # 231) and click spring (key #57)>

install the rod clamp. grease the bolts first.

remove the cooling shield (key #186), drag plate assembly and drag washer (key #68).

remove the click gear (key #48), screws (key #49) and cross pin B (key # 50).

here's the main shaft (key #200) with all washers, springs and bearings in place.

and here it is disassembled.

i've cleaned out and relubed the bearings (key #42 and 170) with corrosion x. if you have an older reel with shielded bearings, take the time now to pry out the shields and throw them away.

i've reassembled the left side of the main shaft using the heavier pre-load springs (belleville's) from the shimano tld 20/30 two speed, part #TT-0040A. to accomodate the extra width of the new belleville washers, i've removed one of the thrust washers on the end, spacer A (key #47).

install the click gear (key #48) and screws (key #49).

grease the inside of the spool and new carbon fiber drag washer. you have your choice of either the penn #6-25 or the avet jx drag washer.

and remove all the excess grease.

install the bearings (key #170) and pressure release spring (key #202), the drag plate assembly and cooling shield (key #186).

install cross pin B (key #50).

slide the spool assembly back into the frame. now, this is important. if the spool does not slide back and forth easily inside the frame, pull the spool out again and rotate the main shaft (key #100) 180 degrees and slide it back in. this works!

install the pinion gear (key #198) and set the spool and frame assembly aside.

here's a shot of the right main side plate bearing. we need to pull this out and pack it with heavy grease.

remove the handle lock (key #2) and screw (key #1).

remove the handle nut (key #3) and handle (key #206).

remove the gear shaft shield (key #5) and thrust washer (key #6), and line everything up.

let the main gear (key #197) drop straight out.

pull the right main side plate bearing (key #28) and pack it with grease.

install the bearing, lube and install the main gear.

push the dog (key #26) back until the main gear drops into position.

install the gear shaft thrust washer (key #6) and gear shaft shield (key #5).

install the handle (key #206) and handle nut (key #3).

install the handle lock (key #2) and screw (key #1).

install the right side plate assembly and screws (key #24).

install the lever quadrant (key #191) and screws (key #19, 20, and 21).

install the drag control lever (key #12) in the free position.

install the lever shaft body (key #11) and add a little grease.

install the pre-program dial (key #9) and you're done!

these modifications accomplish several things. first, it eliminates the risk of drag failure from the canvas drag that comes stock in this reel and all the other single speed shimano lever drag reels. a sticky drag washer is the leading cause of structural damage to any reel. second, cleaning out the bearings will improve freespool and the castability of this reel, as well as decrease the risk of corrosion if the bearings have shields. open bearings are now found in all shimano reels for a good reason. and lastly, the increased drag range means that this reels can be loaded with 65 pound spectra and topshots of 30, 40 or 50# mono. all this in a 3/0 sized package! this reel benched out a 15 pounds of drag at strike before loss of free spool, and had a freespool time of 35 seconds at that 15 pound strike setting. not to shabby! i predict that this reel will kill lots of fish!

Post #: 1

RE: shimano tld 15 rebuild - 31 May 2006 10:35:05

Dean Carnaby

Posts: 256
Joined: 5 June 2003
From: Albany, Western Australia
Status: offline

Where the hell were you 2 weeks ago
when I stripped my TLD 15 cleaned,serviced and regreased prior to heading to
Dirk Hartog Island tomorrow.
Your explainations are first rate and the pictures absolutely brilliant.
Will have to do a complete rebiuld when I get home.
well done

_____________________________

A bad days fishing is always better than a good day in the office.

(in reply to Alan Tani)

Post #: 2

RE: shimano tld 15 rebuild - 6 June 2006 19:30:05

Pete Waterman

Posts: 190
Joined: 22 September 2005
Status: offline

Alan

Great stuff. Can I use the same drag washers on my TLD10??

(in reply to Alan Tani)

Post #: 3

RE: shimano tld 15 rebuild - 7 June 2006 2:51:09

Alan Tani

Posts: 182
Joined: 15 May 2006
From: saratoga, california, usa
Status: offline

actually, the rebuild proceedures for the tld 5 and 10 are exactly the same. you need the same penn drag washer (part #6-25) but you have to grind it down until it fits into the spool. the fit has to be exact.

i have an impact wrench with a set of both metric and sae sockets. i found an impact socket that fits into the hole of the drag washer. then i held the edge of the drag washer up against a grinding wheel to grind down the diameter of the drag washer. it's quick, and makes a mess. don't breath the carbon and fiberglass dust. i don't know what the health risks are, but it can't be good.

(in reply to Pete Waterman)

Post #: 4

RE: shimano tld 15 rebuild - 7 June 2006 8:53:23

Pierce Lim

Posts: 116
Joined: 20 August 2004
From: Fishing Valley
Status: offline

Should have put a sticky on the post. My TLD5 got hope to rebuild now after years of storing it in the closit

(in reply to Alan Tani)

Post #: 5

RE: shimano tld 15 rebuild - 9 June 2006 13:35:52

Dean Carnaby

Posts: 256
Joined: 5 June 2003
From: Albany, Western Australia
Status: offline

Alan,
I was wondering what tool you used to pry the
shields out of the bearings.
I've been trying but have been unable to get them to budge.

_____________________________

A bad days fishing is always better than a good day in the office.

(in reply to Alan Tani)

Post #: 6

RE: shimano tld 15 rebuild - 15 July 2006 0:47:25

Alan Tani

Posts: 182
Joined: 15 May 2006
From: saratoga, california, usa
Status: offline

there are 3 types of bearings to deal with. here is a shield with retaining ring. i take a small fish hook and pry out the retaining ring first. then you can use the point of a knife, scalpel, or even compressed air to remove the shield. these shields can be put back in if you so desire. note the "ends" of the retaining ring at the 10 and 11 o'clock positions.

the second type has a pressed in metal shield. you need the point of an awl or a small swiss army knife to pry out the shield. the metal shield will now be badly mangled and must be discarded. you now have an "open" bearing. this is not necessarily a bad thing.

here is a sealed bearing. the seal is made of plastic or rubber. use a small swiss army knife to pry out the seal. clean the bearing and re-lube it. you should be able to press the seal back into place by hand if you want to.

in southern california and mexico, you need to be able to cast a bait with these larger reels. your bearings need to be cleaned and lubed to spin well. the shields or seals should be removed. if all you do is troll or drag the bottom, you're better off packing the bearing with grease to prevent corrosion. leave the shields or seals on.

(in reply to Dean Carnaby)

Post #: 7